6.5 Frames Per Second

1942 Gruen 420SS

The latest Gruen in the stable and this is a project watch as you can see by the less than perfect dial. At first glance I’d guess it’s a gold bezel but I won’t bother having it tested since it’s not of any substantial size. The first thing I did was degrease the dial which had been partially cleaned with a heavy hand removing a good portion of the radium and printing. Next I took a fine pick and removed what was left of the original lead seal that made up the waterproofing element. It’s the first time I’ve seen lead used but I gather most other pieces have just had it removed by previous watchmakers.

Inside the case

There are a few bends in the lugs that I’ll heat and straighten but other than that it’s clean as you can hope for inside the case. A 420SS movement that’s running strong and at first glance keeping accurate time within a minute per day. Being a lightweight at approximately 32mm I wouldn’t put it in the daily wear case but it does have that great Gruen look to it, so I like it.

Linen Dial with Radium indices and hand inserts

I gather this is a later model judging by the un remarkable movement made by ST (Standard) and based on an A. Shild 1686. The finish on the plates and wheels scream downsize but the linen dial makes up for it since it’s my favorite for a dress watch. I was expecting this to be a parts or repair project but after a few minor adjustments this watch is keeping time as well as any of my other Gruens.

Upon delivery of any watch that’s been sold as non working or? needs TLC and a service, I check for a few things before anything else.

1: Check to make sure hairspring hasn’t jumped up onto a train wheel.
2: Check to make sure hairspring hasn’t jumped out of the regulating pins.
3: Make sure it’s wound. (Go ahead and laugh, I bought one watch as needing a new battery and in need of repair. The grinding heard when turning the stem was the click spring.)
4: Check for obvious debris blocking the train and escapement.
5: Check jewels for any chips/cracks bad enough to slow or stop a pivot.
6: Check for oil and grease build up. It’s better to have a watch that stopped and was thrown in a drawer than one that was dipped a couple times in sewing machine oil.

These are some of my standard inspections for vintage wristwatches and a good many can be brought up to running condition after checking these simple points. A watch with poor amplitude or one that struggles to run is no longer a frustration when I open the case up. Removing and cleaning/oiling the balance jewels will give you a perfectly capable occasional wearer.

Gruen 552 RSS movement

Well, another day another Gruen. I’ve been lucky, the last few examples have been in exceptionally good condition. There’s one in the mail that has a dial that could repel children and small animals. Another redial for International…coming soon.